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This is probably the most commonly asked question. First, make
sure you have a brain and double check that it's functioning correctly.
Motorcycles are not toys (they're a heck of a lot better!) - lots of people die
on them. Find someone, a friend of the family, a friend of a friend, someone who
can help you out with the millions of questions you'll probably have when buying
your first bike.
Ok, assuming everything upstairs is ok, what next? I'll list all of the stuff
that comes to mind. NOTE: I can't think of every possible thing that could
go wrong when you buy a bike - I hold no guarantees here. Here are some of the
common ones.
Tires- tires
can cost a lot (~$200-$400/pair usually). When compared to the cost of some used
bikes, that can be a lot. Tires are really important - how many motorcyclists
have you heard of that have had a "blowout?" There's a reason why you
haven't. Here's what to look for:
Tread- 1 mm or less (you can see the
top of Abe Lincoln's head if you stick a penny in the tire tread) and the tire
really should be replaced.1-2mm deep usually means they have about an average
of a season's worth on 'em (depends how much you ride and how much horsepower
the bike has, of course). More than 2 mm, and you're pretty much ok for a
while.
Dry Rotting- or "cracking." Usually
means that the tires are old and/or the bike has not been in covered
storage. Real "light" cracking may be ok, but basically if
there is excessive dry rotting, you should get new tires.
Oil Leaks- The
severity of an oil leak varies extremely from bike to bike. My bike has had a
little oil leak for 3 seasons now, and it's fine. I had another bike that
started to leak a little oil and within 1000 miles, I was getting a generous
blessing of hot oil on my leg when I hit the highway (had to replace the upper
head gasket). Check around the middle of the engine - is there a lot of oil, the
head gasket may need to be replaced soon. The other common place for oil to leak
from is the valve cover, which is the top-most part of the engine. If you are
unsure as to whether you should worry about it - ask the owner to wipe off the
old oil and then take the bike for a test drive (or ask the owner to) for at
least 5-10 minutes after the bike has warmed up; then carefully (don't
burn yourself!!!) examine the area you saw the oil at with a flashlight. If
there's oil - then the gasket most likely should be replaced.
Has the bike been "down?"
- This may or may not be that significant. Most used bikes
have got a history of scratches. If you see any significant ones, ask the owner
for the story - you'll find out (hopefully) if it was a serious hit, or
"just a scratch;" you'll probably learn something too. Here's the most
common places to find "evidence" that the bike's been "street
slidin": The ends of the hand grips, the edges of the turn signals, the
ends and sides of the tailpipes, and the front edges of the "case"
(bottom right and left as you look at the front of the bike). Some types of
"scratches" may be more than "just a scratch". For example,
the bike's charging system is occasionally damaged when certain areas of the
"case" are damaged.
Why is he or she selling the bike? -
If their answer seems kind, of "wishy-washy," you
may want to think twice and have a mechanic look over it. I've seen people start
the bike before I got to the garage because the starter motor and charging
system were on the brink.
Brakes - The
rear brakes, if they are "drum" brakes (there is no metal
"disk" on the back wheel like there is on the front wheel), are
usually real easy to see when they need replacing. There is usually a "wear
indicator" on the drum itself. Press the back brake pedal all the way down
and see where the "pointer" points - if it travels more than 75% of
the scale, you'll probably need to get new rear brake "shoes" within a
couple of years. The front brake(s) is (are) a bit tricky some time. If the
front wheel were a circle, place your eye (close one) at the edge of the circle.
While looking at one brake disk at a time, move your head along the edge of the
circle until you can see material inside the caliper (the thing that straddles
the "disk") almost touching the disk (on both sides)-those are the
brake pads. The pads are mounted to a metal material on the outside edge.
If the amount of material on that metal is more than about 1/8 of an inch,
you're probably ok. Brake pads are usually not that expensive.
Fork seals - Look
at the front forks (the two tubes that go from the handle bars to the front
axle). Is there any oil or dirt on them? If there is, you're probably talking
about getting new fork seals; they're not that expensive, but it's kind of a
pain to take the tubes off the bike (or more expensive to bring it
"in"). Wipe off the fork tubes and push the front end of the bike up
and down a couple of times and listen for any funky noises and recheck for oil
leaking; you should hear a nice, smooth whooshing sound when you compress them
and the tubes should be very clean.
How does the thing look? - This
is gonna be your baby - don't say, "Well I guess I'll deal with the
dent." If the thing is just real dirty and a bit rusty, you can take care
of that, but if it's real dinged up - don't buy it. I assure you, there are VERY GOOD DEALS TO BE HAD
OUT THERE, you just have got to wait for them.
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